Stop Pulling! Tips for Walking Your Dog On a Leash
Before beginning any training: Research your dog's breed (or breeds) and get to know their inherent traits. Dog Breeds and Their Inherent Traits and Dispositions You should know the origin of the breed, the purpose of the breed, trainability, and temperament. Don't assume your dog is being stubborn when in fact, he is reacting exactly as his breed should. As most dog owners know, dogs are happiest when in forward motion. Forget the fact that you may need to stop to tie your shoe, button your jacket or untangle the leash from the tree which you now find yourself wrapped around. Forward momentum is a dog's mission! Small dogs are not particularly bothersome as our weight is counterproductive to their incessant pulling. Many dog owners ignore the fact that their small dog's chest is suspended off the ground in midair while they walk using their hindquarters only. However, larger dogs can present another problem, a dangerous one, if not trained properly. A dog who weighs say, forty pounds, could easily drag an individual into oncoming traffic if they spotted an object worthy of chase on the other side of the street. Another concern worth mentioning is the number of elderly or very young individuals with large, untrained dogs. These dogs will sometimes lunge at an object, causing a dislocated shoulder, a torn ligament or even upset the balance of the one holding the leash causing them to fall and possibly break a bone. These are serious concerns for all and should be addressed immediately upon obtaining a dog, whether a puppy or an untrained mature dog. Contrary to the belief that these dogs cannot be trained not to pull, we offer some tips and suggestions that prove otherwise. This is one difficult habit to help your dog overcome but it can be dealt with in a positive, yet firm manner. First and foremost, what we suggest is to tire out the dog BEFORE he is ready to go on his training walks. "What? I've never heard of this before." you may say, but that is exactly what needs to happen. A calm dog can focus on what is being taught, rather than being distracted by wanting to run, run, run! Now, how can this be achieved? Simple, have a toy that he delights in chasing or anything that can be thrown and then retrieved by him. Remember, it has to be fun and something he looks forward to playing with, not a toy left about with which he can play anytime. This is a special toy or ball that he will eventually come to associate with a nice outdoor walk shortly thereafter. Again, a calm dog is the easiest to train, thus the need to dissipate that pent-up energy before a training walk. If you have the type dog that has boundless energy and never seems to quiet down, our High Anxiety essential oil product is well worth using. This essential oil, sprayed on the neck and chest area, will calm an overactive dog within 8-10 minutes. This product ensures a calm dog, not one that is drugged! Now let's consider basic equipment. Do not use a retractable lead. Retractable leads are useless on larger dogs and teach nothing for their smaller counterparts. These leashes were designed for the convenience of the owner, not for obedience training. A long rope works just as well, if not better, for recall training.* Body harnesses are another mistake on bigger dogs. While great for hauling and securing your dog to an inanimate object such as a seatbelt in a car, if the inanimate object is you, it is not the best idea. Body harnesses are designed to maximize your dog's pulling power when hauling a load behind him. Think Iditarod and you now have the correct concept for a halter or harness. These harnesses remove all obstruction to the neck and distribute the resisting force evenly to your dog's shoulders, where most of their forward strength comes from. To put a body harness on a large dog and expect him to walk nicely is just asking for wrenched shoulders and skinned knees as you are lugged behind him while he goes where he wants. Choke chains are also out. Many dogs have had serious problems with their larynx as a result of constant pulling while training. The number of deaths due to choke collars being left on while the owner was away is unfortunate to say the least, and could have been completely avoided. So what to use? Use a non-slip collar. A non-slip collar is made of nylon material approximately an inch or so wide and is comfortable for training. As the name suggests, these collars will not allow your dog to slip backward out of it as do many of the buckled variety. Also there is no worry of a length of chain hanging down to catch on anything. A Different Approach As with most things, there is usually more than one way to achieve the same results and we agree with this trainers method. "My favourite method for leash training is the "tree" method. Become an immovable object until your dog ceases to balk at the leash and allows a slack to develop.
Recall Training NEVER, ever punish your dog for returning to your side after you have called him. "Punishment" includes yelling, hitting, talking in an angry voice, standing with an angry stance. Anything negative in this situation will be viewed as "punishment" to a dog who is currently being rewarded with fun and freedom. Why ever would he want to return when that means an end to the fun? And why would he return to you from running off only to get slapped about the head? That would never make sense to a child, neither does it to your dog. Do responsible training, not confusing. Assess your dog. What makes him drool with delight? What grabs his attention and holds it to the exclusion of all else? It may be a ball, a squeaking toy, or freeze-dried liver treats, but every dog has a "trigger". Find your dog's trigger, and find a large, open room. Start small. Call his name from across the room, and as soon as he reaches your side, give him a treat. Do this three or four times a day. Got that down pat? Now let's take him outside. Attach a long lead, don't let him loose yet, not even in a fenced area. Make sure your "long lead" is around twenty feet long; long enough to give him plenty of leeway to explore and feel freedom, but easy enough for you to reel in when you need to. And you will need to. Always pitch your voice high, and make your side sound like the best place in the world to be! As soon as he is within touching distance, pull out that treat. Again, you need to repeat this process a few times daily for a while, until he realizes that, indeed, the best place to be, is by your side when you call his name. Once he's figured out that you provide the goodies and fun, it's time to start adding in distractions. What are distractions? A good distraction would be:
While this does produce a reliable recall, I do urge you to never put this to the test outside, where you can not readily retrieve him. Accidents happen in the blink of an eye, and way too fast for you to call him back if something scares him into bolting. The point of the recall is to be able to retrieve your dog, should the unexpected ever happen, or in the midst of a crowded arena that allows for off-leash play (like a Dog Park). |