Dog Crating

Crating Problem: One of my dogs is getting quite old and we have noticed some big changes in her behavior lately. First, she has been crate trained for years, but now, if we crate her, she tries to eat her way out of the crate, to the point of leaving blood on the crate door and hurting her gums so much they swell up. We stopped crating her, but she is also peeing in the house pretty often, but only when we leave, never when we are at home or asleep at night. We adopted her from a shelter in 1994 and are very sure, from her initial behavior, that she was abused, was a street dog, and had been shot in the past (later confirmed by a barium sweep when she had intestinal problems), and was quite a handful at first, but she had settled into a routine and seemed to feel safe and comfortable for quite a while now. What can we do? 

Is your dog crated while you are at home or only when you are away? If it is the latter, she may be suffering from Separation Anxiety If this has never posed a problem in the past, consider that with age, the senses she relies on such as hearing and sight, may be diminishing causing her stress. A once healthy dog, familiar and secure in its surroundings may now become uncertain and constantly seek the reassurance and comfort from it's owner. This would be especially true if other events in her life have changed as well such as a move to a new home (unfamiliar environment) or changes in her normal routine (diet, new addition or loss of family member, either human or animal), anything that could cause stress. Have you watched her behaviour when she is released from the kennel? Does she choose to stay with you or select a secluded area of the house to be alone? These questions and others need to be addressed to get an idea as to what might be happening with your dog. As always, a thorough checkup by your vet along with blood work will rule out any medical problem your dog may have. It may be something fairly simple to deal with. But if not, a more thorough investigation is warranted.

Some hints for crate use:

  • When telling the dog to go into his crate, use a command such as “kennel.”

  • To get the dog accustomed to staying in the crate, give him meals or treats in the crate with the door open.

  • Put some washable bedding and a toy in the crate for comfort.

  • When using the crate for discipline or to interrupt unacceptable behavior patterns, limit the incarceration to 10-15 minutes.

  • If the pup or dog soils the crate, don’t scold. Instead, make arrangements so he’s not left alone for such long periods.

Some people say that using a crate for discipline makes the dog afraid of the crate, but others recommend the crate for this purpose. Who is right?

A crate or dog cage can be a wonderful training tool when used correctly. Used incorrectly, or over used, it can be an instrument of fear and torture. Every dog, especially new puppies, should have a crate. Dogs are descended from wild canines that used dens for shelter. Most wild canines dig the den, a small, cozy, and safe haven to sleep and rear puppies. In our homes, domesticated dogs appreciate such a haven or den that should become the dog’s ‘room,’ a refuge where the dog can rest and feel safe.

A crate is probably one’s best tool when it comes to the discipline of housetraining. The “discipline” aspect comes from a dog’s innate urges not to urinate or defecate in its den or bed. Even young puppies prefer to move as far away from their sleeping quarters as possible to relieve themselves. Usually, a puppy or dog who has an elimination accident in his crate was sick or couldn’t wait any longer.

Crating a puppy or dog over night, or when the family is away during the day, also administers a passive form of discipline by preventing an energetic, curious dog from chewing up human belongings or electric cords. A crate keeps the dog safe, and out of trouble and is handy at times when it is necessary to have repairmen in or during holidays when the house is full of company.

Bad crate discipline occurs when the crate is over used, or misused. Yes, a crate does get the dog out of the way occasionally, but some people misuse it to get the dog out of the way, most of the time. One study about dog surrenders to shelters found that dogs crated for long periods were more at risk for surrender because people used the crate to put the dog “out of sight, out of mind.” Crating a dog for eight hours overnight or while you are at work is not cruel, especially if the dog is taken for a long walk or jog prior to crating. People who continuously crate a dog for longer periods should question why they wanted a dog in the first place.

It is common to punish a human child by sending him to his room. Dogs are not children in fur coats, and this method is futile in teaching Fido a lesson. An all too common scenario is:

  1. Fido chews up a shoe (messes in the house, digs a hole, or commits some other serious transgression).

  2. Owner yells “no,” grabs the dog, and puts him in his crate.

Let’s analyze this from Fido’s point of view. Whether caught in the act or punished minutes or hours later, Fido was probably not aware that the act he was committing was that horrible in human terms. He understands only that his owners are upset and that he came when he was called only to be punished for something he didn’t even know was bad.

When disciplining a dog for committing bad behavior, it is important to catch him in the act of doing the deed. Dogs live in the moment and do not associate something they did five minutes or a half hour ago with the present. Often, an owner finds the mess and punishes the dog, not knowing whether the ‘sin’ was committed five minutes, a half hour, or longer ago. All the dog associates with being called over, punished, then shoved in a crate is that, “I came, I got punished for it, and I certainly won’t make the mistake of coming when called again.” He also learns that the crate is a negative, scary place.

Used for the discipline of keeping the dog safe until trustworthy, and housebreaking, a crate is a wonderful training tool. Used inappropriately, it can cause distress and hamper training progress. Used correctly, it may look like a crate to you, but to a dog, it’s his private room.

How do I get my puppy used to a crate? I've tried putting him in it but he cries so much, I let him out after a few minutes. He doesn't like it and I feel sorry for him.

If small children and puppies could have their way, they'd choose to run free all the time without any restrictions. Unfortunately, because they don't have the maturity to handle that freedom and keep themselves out of trouble, they have to learn to accept periods of confinement. The key word is "accept" - it doesn't mean they'll like it right away. Most dogs bark and complain during the first few days. Once they begin to accept this new restriction on their freedom, they quiet down and learn to enjoy it.

Growing puppies alternate periods of activity and rest throughout the day. There's no reason they can't do their resting in a crate, like a baby taking a nap in a playpen or crib. By keeping the puppy on a regular schedule of feedings and exercise, you can control his natural rest periods. If you put the puppy in his crate when he's already tired and ready to settle down, he'll get used to his new "bedroom" faster.

In the beginning, he should only be expected to stay in the crate for 2 hours at a time and overnight. During his periods out of the crate, your puppy needs plenty of playtime and attention. I like to give puppies at least an hour between crating periods where they're played with, loved, allowed to explore and romp. This burns off their boundless puppy energy and helps them understand that crating is only a temporary thing.

Special toys and treats help make his "room" a pleasant place to stay. Give the puppy a small treat every time he has to go into his crate. Better still, toss the treat into the crate so he can jump in after it. (If you want him to learn to go in the crate on command, say "Kennel" when you toss the treat. He won't understand right away but before long he'll put three important things together in his mind - "Kennel" + Crate = Treat!)

You've given him a reward for going into the crate, now you need to give him an incentive to stay in there quietly. Make his "room" comfortable. Get him a soft but hard to destroy blanket or bed. Get him a selection of toys but don't give them all to him at once, just one or two at a time. Rotate the toys. Puppies get bored easily and switching the toys around makes them seem new and exciting. Teething puppies love chew toys and all dogs love a sterilized beef bone with peanut butter stuffed in the middle. They can spend hours trying to clean it all out.

Dogs learn quickly when their behavior is associated with a reward. Behavior that doesn't result in a reward often disappears when there's nothing in it for them. It's normal for many puppies to bark, whine, howl or throw tantrums when first being crate-trained. If you let your puppy out of the crate while he's upset, you'll be rewarding him for bad behavior. The next time he's supposed to go in his crate, he'll cry and bark again because that's what got him out the last time.

For many puppies, just ignoring their complaints is enough to make them stop. If it doesn't get them anywhere, they soon give it up and find something better to do like sleep or play with a toy. Stubborn puppies might need a harsh-sounding "No!" and a rap on the top of the crate to help them get over their tantrums. Whatever you do, don't take him out of the crate until he's quieted down.

On the other hand, we've heard stories of pets left in crates for up to 14 hours a day. If this is the case with your dog because of other commitments, such as work or caring for a family member or friend, we would suggest you find a suitable home for your pet. Crates are not used as babysitters the way some people use TV's as their children's babysitter. All animals need interaction and if , for whatever reason, you feel you cannot fulfill your obligation, then the humane thing is to find someone who can or employ a pet sitter until you are able to spend more time with your pal.

Crating Duration Guidelines

  9-10 Weeks

Approx. 30-60 minutes

11-14 Weeks

Approx. 1-3 hours

15-16 Weeks

Approx. 3-4 hours

17 + Weeks

Approx. 4+ (6 hours maximum)

* NOTE: Except for overnight, neither puppies nor dogs should be crated for more than 5 hours at a time. (6 hours maximum!)

When Not To Use A Crate - Do not crate your puppy or dog if:

He is too young to have sufficient bladder or sphincter control.

He has diarrhea. (Diarrhea can be caused by: worms, illness, intestinal upsets such as colitis, too much and/or the wrong kinds of food, quick changes in the dogs diet, or stress, fear or anxiety.)

He is vomiting.

He must be left for more than the Crating Duration Guidelines suggest.

He has not eliminated shortly before being placed inside the crate.

The temperature is excessively high.

He has not had sufficient exercise, companionship and socialization.

A Note About Crating Puppies

Puppies under 4 months of age have little bladder or sphincter control. Puppies under 3 months have even less. Very young puppies under 9 weeks should not be crated, as they need to eliminate very frequently (usually 8-12 times or more daily).
 

Important Reminders

  1. Collars: Always remove your puppy or dog's collar before confining in the crate. Even flat buckle collars can occasionally get struck on the bars or wire mesh of a crate. If you must leave a collar on the pup when you crate him (e.g.: for his identification tag), use a safety "break away" collar.
     

  2. Warm weather: Do not crate a puppy or dog when temperatures reach an uncomfortable level. This is especially true for the short-muzzled (Pugs, Pekes, Bulldogs, etc.) and the Arctic or thick- coated breeds (Malamutes, Huskies, Akitas, Newfoundlands, etc.). Cold water should always be available to puppies, especially during warm weather. Never leave an unsupervised dog on a terrace, roof or inside a car during warm weather. Also, keep outdoor exercise periods brief until the hot weather subsides.]
     

  3. Elimination before crating: Be certain that your puppy has fully eliminated shortly before being crated. Be sure that the crate you are using is not too large to discourage your pup from eliminating in it. Rarely does a pup or dog eliminate in the crate if it is properly sized and the dog is an appropriate age to be crated a given amount of time.

If your pup/dog continues to eliminate in his crate, the following may be the causes:

  •  The pup is too young to have much control. 

  •  The pup has a poor or rich diet, or very large meals. 

  •  The pup did not eliminate prior to being confined. 

  •  The pup has worms. 

  •  The pup has gaseous or loose stools. 

  •  The pup drank large amounts of water prior to being crated. 

  •  The pup has been forced to eliminate in small confined areas prior to crate training. 

  • The pup/dog is suffering from a health condition or illness (i.e., bladder infection, prostate problem, etc.) 

  • The puppy or dog is experiencing severe separation anxiety when left alone.

Note: Puppies purchased in pet stores, or puppies which were kept solely in small cages or other similar enclosures at a young age (between approximately 7 and 16 weeks of age), may be considerably harder to housebreak using the crate training method due to their having been forced to eliminate in their sleeping area during this formative stage of development. This is the time when most puppies are learning to eliminate outside their sleeping area. Confining them with their waste products retards the housebreaking process, and this problem can continue throughout a dog's adult life.

Do not use ammonia-based products for cleaning, as their odor resembles urine and may draw your dog back to urinate in the same spot again.

Children And The Crate

Do not allow children to play in your dog's crate or to handle your dog while he/she is in the crate. The crate is your dog's private sanctuary. His/her rights to privacy should always be respected.